Shirting
J. Mueser bespoke shirting is cut by hand from a personal pattern, drafted specifically for you and refined through fitting. Each shirt is made in Italy, sewn with single-needle stitching and finished with hand-attached collars and cuffs, allowing for subtle shaping and long-term comfort.
The process is quiet, but precise, tailored not only to your measurements but to how you stand, how you move, and how you wear your clothes. From collar roll to cuff length, yoke shape to placket width, every detail is chosen with care and made to last.
Most clients require a single fitting before their pattern is finalised. After that, shirts can be made to order in any cloth from our extensive shirting library, from fine Swiss poplins to airy Italian linens, all made with the same level of attention, and the same steady hand.
Our Make Process
1. First Fitting
As with our bespoke tailoring, our shirting process begins with a conversation: how you wear your shirts, what you like in a collar, how you prefer the cuff to sit under a jacket. Some clients come with a clear view; others prefer to explore. Either is welcome. You’ll browse our shirting cloths, with guidance on weight, weave and how they wear over time.
We then take a full set of measurements, not just around the body but including posture, shoulder slope and arm length in motion. We’ll also use fit samples to better understand your preferences; closer or roomier through the body, sleeve fullness, collar stance. From there, a pattern is drafted by hand.
2. Second Fitting
The first shirt is made and delivered for trial. It’s fully constructed - wearable, pressed, finished - but not considered final. At this fitting, we assess how the shirt performs in practice. Does the yoke sit flat? Is there any pulling at the chest or across the back? Do the sleeves feel balanced when reaching or resting?
Sometimes the adjustments are minimal, but they can make a real difference to wear. This fitting helps us dial in the final shape so that future shirts are made with confidence and consistency. Once notes are taken, the pattern is updated and finishing resumes.
3. Completion and Delivery
Your shirt is pressed and ready for collection or delivery, depending on your preference. We’ll keep your pattern on file for future commissions, so reordering, whether in the same cloth or a new seasonal option, is straightforward and seamless. As with our tailoring, we’re happy to make further adjustments over time should your preferences or needs evolve.
4. Initial Wear
You’ve taken your shirt home and had a chance to wear it and wash it. This, in some ways, is the ‘final’ fitting stage - we check in with you to ensure you’re happy with how it’s settled and performing, make adjustments if they’re needed and take notes for any future orders, ensuring your shirt is looking and feeling its very best.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the shirt handmade?
Each shirt is hand-cut from your personal pattern, sewn with single-needle stitching and finished with hand-attached collars and cuffs.
Where is the shirt made?
Our bespoke shirts are made in Naples, Italy.
Do you have a minimum order volume for shirts?
No. We’re happy to make a single shirt, though most clients prefer to commission several once their pattern is finalised.
Can my shirt be rushed?
Yes, under certain circumstances - it depends on fabric, specifics of fit. Speak with our team and let them know of any key dates - we’ll do our best to accommodate.
How many styles do you have?
Our shirting program encompasses everything from sophisticated wing-tip collar shirts for white-tie dress, all the way through to our sawtooth denim casual shirt. Collars, cuffs, fronts and plackets can all be specified to your preference. We will work with you to define each shirt’s style based on your requirements during consultation.
How do I care for my shirt?
We recommend washing, hang-drying and pressing. Dry cleaning is an option, but not necessary for most cloths unless directly stained.
If your shirt is in need of drycleaning, our team can suggest recommended services for you.
Once I’ve got a J. Mueser shirt, how do I order more?
Once your pattern is finalised, reordering is straightforward. You can choose any cloth from our library - whether repeating a favourite or trying something new - and we’ll cut and make your shirts to the exact same fit and specifications.
I’ve lost a button or collar stay — what do I do?
Get in touch with our team. We’ll either replace it on site or send what you need.
What fabrics are available?
Our shirting library includes fine poplins, twills, oxfords, linens and more from the world’s leading mills including Albini, Thomas Mason, Monti, Söktas and Canclini.
Can I have my choice of trims and finishing?
We have a broad range of buttons and trims - our team will help you select the best for each shirt.
Will my shirt shrink?
Our fabrics are tested for shrinkage and our fitting process accounts for it, but as we work with natural fibres, some change over time is normal. To minimise it, hang-dry rather than tumble.