The Waverly Suit
Fully canvassed with light-touch shoulder construction, the Waverly adroitly balances fluid drape and structure, allowing it to work effortlessly with everything from summer-weight linens to Italian flannel and crisp English worsteds. Each piece is hand-crafted in Naples, Italy, from a hand-drafted paper pattern, allowing us meticulous control over styling details, from the lapel, to the pocket and the expression of the shoulder.
Our team will guide you through the process, helping you arrive at a Waverly suit or jacket that is both a full expression of your personal aesthetic and unmistakably J. Mueser.
Our Make Process
1. First Fitting
We’ll sit down with you and discuss what you’d like from your new suit or jacket - what aesthetic you’re looking for, how and when you’ll wear it and any specific details you’d like to bring to life. Our team will work with you to craft the style of your garment and help you select a fabric from the thousands we have on offer from the world’s finest mills.
We’ll take detailed measurements across over thirty key dimensions, both on-body and using fit garments to simulate cut, style and drape. Once measurements are confirmed, your commission will be sketched and we’ll take a few fitting photos for our sartoria to reference. With all of that complete, your order is ready to be put into production and our team will begin hand-drafting your pattern, hand-cutting each piece and hand-sewing your garments in preparation for your next fitting.
2. Second Fitting
Depending on your timeline, structural needs or stylistic desires, for your first fitting we can either do a basted fitting – or go straight to finish.
Basted Fitting: this brings the garment in loosely assembled, with temporary stitches holding the shape. At this point, we focus on key aspects of fit and proportion: shoulder line, lapel width, button position, trouser rise. The garment is still malleable, allowing for meaningful adjustments. We take updated measurements and fitting photographs, and the garment then returns to the workroom for further refinement.
Straight to Finish: this brings the garment in structurally complete, with more details finished. We do this with 70% of our commissions, when we feel confident based on the order process that we can accomplish everything we aimed for in the fit and the style of the garment. We then use this fitting to address any adjustments desired - shortening a sleeve, tidying a hem, refining the waist. These are final touches, and in most cases they can be made on site within the week.
3. Final Fitting
Your tailored garment is finished and packed in a J. Mueser garment bag. Many of our local clients choose to swing by one final time to make sure everything is perfect. If you are located outside of New York City, or simply have a busy schedule, we are more than happy to courier or ship your new piece to you.
4. Completion and Delivery
Every J. Mueser garment is the beginning of a relationship between us and you, the wearer. We are here to support your garment throughout its lifetime - if you ever need alterations, repairs or advice, please get in touch so that our team can assist. Your paper pattern will be kept on file at our workshop, ready for your next Waverly commission.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Waverley handmade?
Every Waverly garment is fully hand-cut and handsewn, with some elements of machine finishing.
What is the Waverly house style?
The Waverly epitomises the J. Mueser house style - elegant yet relaxed, and full of character. A Waverly jacket or coat features a soft canvas, relaxed shoulder, high armhole, gently tapered waist, generous lapel, dropped gorge and low button stance.
As every pattern is drafted by hand, we can adapt our core style around your aesthetic preferences.
What garments are available in the Waverly?
Suits, blazers and sports jackets, trousers, waistcoats and overcoats are all available.
Is the Waverly available for men and women?
Yes - whilst we’re best known for our menswear, the Waverly programme is available for anyone.
Can the Waverly be rushed?
Yes under certain circumstances - it depends on fabric, specifics of fit. Speak with our team and let them know of any key dates - we’ll do our best to accommodate.
If I’m shopping for my wedding, when should I start?
We suggest six months lead time for weddings. Whilst we can produce garments faster, we can say from experience that wedding tailoring benefits from additional time and thought.
The more time you allow to arrange your tailoring, the more time our team has to help you curate the perfect ensemble for your big day - as well as giving you added flexibility around fittings, adjustments, groomsmen and bridesmaids, and so forth
Where is the Waverly made?
The Waverly is made in Naples, Italy.
How does it work if I’ve ordered a Waverly and want to place a second order?
Once we’ve made you a garment and you’re happy with the fit, your bespoke pattern and preferences will remain on file for future use.
Onward orders are typically completed in slightly less time than first orders.
What fabrics are available?
We work with dozens of the world’s finest cloth mills, including Vitale Barberis Canonico, Loro Piana, Fox Brothers, Holland & Sherry, Scabal, Solbiati and many more, covering everything from heavy British flannels and tweeds to crisp Italian twills and lightweight linens.
There are many thousands of cloths on offer; our team’s expert guidance will help you find one that meets your sartorial, aesthetic and performance needs perfectly.
Can I have my choice of trims and finishing?
Yes, we offer a comprehensive selection of buttons, linings and associated finishing details. Our team will help you select the best features for your garment.
What happens if my garment needs adjustments?
We’re here for the life of the garment. If your fit preferences change or you need alterations, just let us know.
For international customers, please reach out to us and we’ll help you find a local solution.
What happens if a button or a hem comes loose?
For aftercare, including loose buttons and hems, please reach out to our team and we’ll gladly resolve the issue for you.